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The Khmer Chronicles / Issue Nr 2: Can Cultural Identity go private?
During its rehabilitation in 1994 the theatre was gutted by a fire and left crippled until today. Crippled but still alive. Some 300 artists, traditional dancers, members of the Royal Ballet, kept using the place for rehearsals, working under collapsing roofs or in the nearby exhibition grounds.
They will be moved to a new facility, cheaply built behind a fashionable private nightclub (formerly the National Circus). In a country where reconstruction is in full swing after more than 30 years of war (10,5% growth in 2006), the focus is on infrastructure. But somehow, despite constantly referring to its glorious Angkorian past, it seems financing cultural infrastructure is not a priority for the government. The Fine Arts School grounds near the old Olympic Stadium, the cradle of new talent, was sold to a company who built shabby facilities for the students in poorly accessible suburbs and built housing and a shopping mall where the finest classical dancers and musicians were once trained.
That a government lets outsiders finance its culture is one thing, risky enough, but that a price tag is added to its most painful recent history goes beyond risk taking. That is irresponsible. Links:
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It seems there is not a day when something of Cambodia's past is up for grabs and available to the one with the highest bid. Lately, the land owned by the government on which was built the Suramarit theater was sold for an undisclosed amount and for an undisclosed period of time as a concession to a private company who doesn't seem to have precise plans. It is difficult to be less transparent with public property...
In Cambodia one often knows what he'll lose but not what he'll get in return. And here the loss is considerable. The theatre is one of architect Vann Molyvann's highest achievements. In the so-called "Golden Era" of the 60's the Cambodian architect has dotted the landscape of his capital Phnom Penh with landmarks of international standards like the School of Foreign Languages, Chaktomuk conference hall or the Olympic stadium. During the 80's the theatre was a point of convergence for the artists scattered by the Khmer Rouge regime. This was the place where one could assess who was left alive among the heirs of centuries old culture. Cambodian film director Rithy Panh has used the theatre as a pivotal point for his film "Le Theatre Brule" which precisely and quite humorously checks where exactly Cambodia stands today on a cultural level.
In an ultraliberal economic surrounding, the incredible cultural diversity of Cambodia today can only survive through private funding. It's not that private funding or grants can't maintain high standards, like with the 
Reader comments (5)
First of all - beautiful images of the girls practicing Apsara. I've been visiting Phnom Penh once or twice a year since mid 2003. The capital is going ahead at full speed in terms of new buildings. In 2003 the kids used to practice Apsara at the Royal University of Arts nr. the Old Stadium in Tuol Kok. I took a bunch of photos there and on my next visit took the prints to give to some of the kids. The place had been bulldozed. All those beautiful old buildings with their faded grandeur and such lovely colours no longer exist (now in 2007 new buldings/apts have been built in the area). Development is a good thing, but in Phnom Penh it seems like the only people who benefit are the rich. The poor have no say. Phnom Penh is still a beautiful city. But for how long? Thank you, Jon, for documenting these things.
Comment posted by scott lucas on October 16, 2007
hi. thanks for update email . excelent
Comment posted by tajik on October 16, 2007
Hi John,
Thank you for this new update on LANDollars grab. I have become familiar with the new school of Fine Arts in the suburbs these last 2 years, almost impossible to reach if raining, at least on bike. The buildings are sadly reminiscing of some red ochre nazi concentration camp, desolation transpires often behind the usual kindness and smiles of adms and teachers. Many times, pupils are waiting in vain for their professors....They just had no money to put gas in their mopeds, or had to work elsewhere. I have no idea how they make it, frankly.
I hope to have the honor of meeting you on a next trip there.
Comment posted by herve on October 16, 2007
ive checked some khmer websites of whats happening today and i hear that the there is a new president or king whatever that the new guy in charge had made things more diffucult for the people making them pay rent which is sad when many are so poor
Comment posted by ley on May 2, 2008
Iey,
The actual Prime Minister, Mr Hun Sen, is on his job since 1985 without interruption, ranking him amongst the record holders for that office in the region. Newly crowned King Sihamoni has no real power. Although Cambodia officially is a democracy where relatively free elections are held regularly since the Paris Peace accords from 19991 (the next elections take place this July), the country is plagued by nepotism and very high levels of corruption, indeed making life for many of its inhabitants quite difficult.
You may find up to date information about Cambodia on the following websites:
Ka-set (in Khmer and French, and soon in English): http://www.ka-set.info
The Phnom Penh Post (in English): http://www.phnompenhpost.com/
KiMedia (in English): http://ki-media.blogspot.com/
Comment posted by John Vink on May 3, 2008